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Rolex Submariner "Swiss Only" 1999

Rolex Submariner "Swiss Only" 1999

$ 54.61

$ 70.99

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Product Details

An automatic, stainless steel, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Submariner reference 16610 model with a glossy black dial.This watch could be considered the most iconic, and certainly the most recognizable watch in the Rolex stable. Since its inception into the Rolex line up in 1953 this watch has been worn and loved by deep sea divers, members of the military, movie stars and today's watch collectors. This version continues the evolution of the model from the 16610 was released in 1988 replacing the very short lived 168000, which was the final upgrade in the 16800 line. This new reference was to become a very successful one for Rolex, and the Submariner finally being replaced in 2010. It also saw the introduction of the firs submariner to use a colour aside from black in the all steel case; the 2003 fiftieth anniversary watch.


One very small detail sets this watch apart from many of its siblings of later years. At the foot of the dial, it is marked “Swiss”. This means that this dial has applied Luminova luminous material. This material replaced the highly dangerous, and radioactive Radium in 1963, and then Tritium until 1998. Just like radium, tritium was also radioactive; however, it came with a much lower level of radiation and a much shorter half-life. While tritium was exponentially safer than radium, it only had a half-life of twelve years. This meant that after just a few decades, only a tiny fraction of the initial luminescence would remain. Additionally, as tritium ages, the color changes, which creates often beautiful, and highly sought after patinas on the luminous markers on these older Rolex watches.


Tritium was far from perfect, which lead Rolex to search for a better alternative. The answer came during the 1990’s, from a Japanese company called Nemoto and Co., which specialized in producing luminous paint. Their new compound, called Luminova, was photoluminescent rather than radioactive, making it entirely harmless. Additionally, it was not prone to fading or discoloration like its predecessor, tritium. This is what has been applied to all areas requiring luminous material on this watch.


Luminova was far superior to tritium, and by 1998, Rolex began using it on their watches. These now rare and collectible, as the production run was around two years, and are marked simply "Swiss". By 2000, Rolex had switched to Super Luminova, as presented here. A slightly improved version of Luminova that was sold through a different supplier. These dials were marked "Swiss Made”. This was introduced on all Rolex watches circa 1999/2000. In 2008, Rolex announced a switch from Super Luminova to its own proprietary compound, Chromalight. Like its predecessor, Chromalight is photoluminescent and entirely safe; however, Chromalight differs in that it glows blue rather than green. Rolex states that Chromalight starts glowing more quickly and lasts longer than Super Luminova, and that the blue color makes it easier to for human eyes to read in dim lighting. Beyond that, Chromalight gives modern Rolex a distinctive appearance in dark settings, and brings yet another aspect of their production process in-house. So that is what makes a Rolex glow in the dark.


The watch is powered by a Rolex, Swiss made, twenty seven jewel automatic calibre 3135 movement that powered the majority of all Rolex models since its launch, from the Datejust to the Submariner. This caliber related the very successful and reliable 3035. While the Caliber 3035 and caliber 3135 are both Quickset movements that boast chronometer-certification (COSC) and self-winding technology, the Cal. 3135 represents a significant step forward, adding several jewels, a slightly longer power reserve, and a transverse balance bridge for superior stability. This new caliber was considered to be one of the best and most reliable mass produced mechanical movements ever created, the Rolex Caliber 3135 was even used to power the subsequent generation of Submariner watches and served as the movement of choice for the Submariner Date all the way up until it was finally replaced with the Caliber 3235 in September 2020.


The case is not as you would expect to find with a tool watch now coming up for almost twenty five years old. It is however unpolished, which is uncommon with watches even from this period. There is some scratching to the top left edge of the case, but overall it is excellent and untouched, with all the chamfers very strong on all four lugs. The bezel insert is correct and original to the watch. The pip set in the arrow at the sixty minute mark is a Luminova arrow too, and glows blue under UV.


The bracelet is also all original. Marked 93150 with 501B end links. It should be pointed out that it is unpolished and with very little stretch, with diver extension, and two removable links present. The case serial number starts with A374XXX for having been made in 1999 and is nearer to the start of this serial range.


Overall, this is an excellent watch, and is a collectible one with the Swiss Only dial. It is very rare for Rolex to produce watches in such a tight prediction level like this, and will only increase in its collectibility and demand as years pass and more people learn about this quirk.

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